Lake Waikaremoana Great Walk:
My Christmas Adventure
I love a good adventure. A chance to explore nature, and explore myself at the same time.
This Christmas, that adventure was the Lake Waikaremoana Great Walk.
From the DOC website
Located deep in Tūhoe territory in the East Coast region of the North Island, Waikaremoana has been on my bucket list for some time. I’ve visited the area before and it’s not an easy place to reach, which is exactly part of the appeal. A few years ago, I road-tripped along SH38 from Murupara to Wairoa, one of my all-time favourite drives. Yes, it’s technically challenging, but the scenery and wildlife more than make up for it.
This time, I returned to tackle the Great Walk itself.
I stayed at the Lake Waikaremoana Holiday Park the night before starting, making for an easy start to my 8:30 am water taxi.
Blair from Waiwai Express is an absolute legend. The lake was pretty choppy, but he had us across in no time, dropping us at Whanganui Landing.
Day One: Whanganui - Marauiti Hut (4h, 12.5 km)
From Whanganui Landing, I walked past Waiharuru Hut and on to Marauiti Hut for the night. A light morning drizzle gave way to a beautiful day, and thankfully, it was the only rain I saw. My trusty raincoat had finally given up on its waterproof claims, but the afternoon sunshine meant everything dried out nicely.
As the afternoon wore on, the hut slowly filled. Couples, families, small groups. No other solo trampers, though.
Earlier in the day, I’d passed another solo woman on the track. Seeing her gave me a quiet sense of reassurance. This wasn’t just something I was doing. Other women were also doing this on their own.
I slept well that night, which was fortunate, as I knew Day Two would be my biggest challenge.
Day Two: Marauiti Hut - Waiopaoa Hut (6h, 12.2 km)
The walk from Marauiti Hut to Waiopaoa Hut included a side quest to Korokoro Falls and was every bit as big as expected.
Waiopaoa Hut is one of those huts. You can see it long before you reach it, sitting there as if to say, “You’re almost here,” while still being a solid 40 minutes away. Equal parts encouragement and torment.
When I finally arrived, a handful of people were sunbathing out front. Once I’d caught my breath and claimed a bunk, I jumped into the lake. The water was refreshing, revitalising, renewing. Exactly what I needed.
The hut was full that night, with accents bouncing around the room. It would have been easy to assume the trail was mostly tourists, but as conversations unfolded, it turned out many were residents or citizens who had chosen Aotearoa as home.
It felt like a beautiful, shared way to spend Christmas Day.
Another great night’s sleep.
Day Three: Waiopaoa Hut - Panekire Hut (3h, 7.6 km)
Day Three was the climb up to Panekire Hut. Shorter on paper, harder in reality. It wasn’t quite as brutal as I’d anticipated, but by the end, I was thoroughly over stairs.
This hut crept up on me. No long-distance taunting this time. One minute I was walking, the next I was there, just before lunchtime.
Lunch that day was my favourite of the whole trip: Back-Country apple and berry crumble. Absolute perfection.
The afternoon stretched out slowly. Resting, chatting, connecting. Then the temperature dropped. For the first time on the trip, the long johns and thermal top came out. The hut was busy, and by early evening, I felt overstimulated. I retreated to my sleeping bag before the sun had even set.
The downside of an early bedtime? A very early start.
Day Four: Panekire Hut - Onepoto carpark (3h, 8.8km)
I was on the track before 7am, quietly ambling through a gnarled forest coated in moss that felt straight out of an enchanted fairytale.
I turned a corner and there, standing on the track ahead of me, was a deer. A hind. We both froze. Then she bolted.
It felt like a gift.
The rest of the walk down to Onepoto went smoothly. Mostly downhill, mostly reflective. I was stoked when the car park came into view. I made it out by 11:30 and messaged my emergency contacts to let them know I was safe.
And because I clearly hadn’t had enough adventure yet, I added one final side quest. From Wairoa, I headed east to Mōrere and soaked in the thermal springs before making my way home.
What I Learned
My learnings mirrored those from my first solo tramp.
I can trust myself. I was well prepared. I took the necessary safety precautions, left clear intentions, carried a PLB, and didn’t take unnecessary risks.
I enjoy my own company. Solo tramping offers a particular kind of freedom. Leaving the hut when you want to. Stopping when you want to. Keeping going when you want to. It’s the freedom of following your own timetable and honouring your own needs.
Nature fills my cup. I’ve spent time reflecting on the difference between rest and recovery. This trip was recovery. Unplugging from technology. Returning to basics. Sleeping, eating, walking from hut to hut. Long stretches of space to reflect on the year that’s been and begin dreaming about the one ahead.
I can do hard things. And I can trust myself to see them through.
And if you’re reading this, wondering whether you could do something hard too?
I can help you with that. Use the link below to get in touch.
